Nino and I were finally able to get in to see the Opera Garnier today. This was my fourth time visiting and we apparently made it just in time as they were going to close the auditorium again that afternoon for rehearsal.
I didn't realize until I got inside that Marc Chagall painted the ceiling of the main auditorium. I've liked Chagall since I was a kid because my mother hung a framed poster of his in my room at her house when I was growing up. I always associate Chagall with her and her love of art. I just wish she had been with me to see it. The opera house was a treat. I can only imagine this being my local theater and regularly seeing shows here. I already despise Portland's Keller auditorium and now I can never call that locale a "theatre" ever again after seeing the grandiosity, opulence, decadence, and beauty of the Opera Garnier. I was inspired all over again to write a play, musical, or other piece which could one day be performed at the Opera house. The next time I head to Paris, I definitely want to see a show here. I imagine sitting in one of the opulent, red velvet boxes where royalty, artists, and writers have sat and watched spectacles for nearly 400 years. Tickets sell out pretty far in advance and I couldn't get any this time.
After the opera house, we took the Metro to La Grande Epicerie of Paris, Le Bon Marché's massive gourmet grocery store on the left bank. I had a blast looking at all of the cases of fresh treats and gourmet goodies. Of course, they also stocked products like Lipton tea bags too. Nino and I had paninis in their outdoor café and then I bought white chocolate, dark chocolate, caramels from Fauchon, and rabbit paté in a jar to take home. We ended up also getting two caramel macaroons, two vanilla macaroons, sugary donut like chouquettes, and two canelés as well. What a sugar rush.
Just down the street from Le Bon Marché was the Chapel dedicated to St. Vincent de Paul. His actual, uncorrupt body was displayed in a gold case above the alter. Considering he died almost 200 years ago, it was awe-inspiring to see an actual miracle in the flesh.
And then Nino dragged me to the last church on the list, St Denis's Cathedral. It was a smaller version of Chartres or Notre Dame. And I was thoroughly "churched out" by the time we got here. Of interest though is that this church contains a necropolis with 800 years of French monarchs. During the French Revolution, all of their graves had been dug up and dumped in one mass pile. So, most of the graves are only markers and statues. Interesting, nonetheless though. The bodies of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette are here. Apparently, their remains were able to be identified and reburied during Napoleon I's first exile.
After the church, we stopped in at the cafe across from the cathedral and had coffee and nutella crepes.
We grilled veal chops, boiled pasta, and cut up a fresh loaf of bread with dinner.
Then, we went the Moulin Rouge for the 9pm show. I've wanted to go for awhile and check this out. I was hesitant, but hopeful that we'd see a good show. Unfortunately, it wasn't a good show in the least. We were wedged into a seat at the back of the theatre at a table meant for 6 people. Thankfully, our table only had four or we would have been really miserable. Although there were a few good acts like the woman who swam with snakes and the ventriloquist, the dancing and choreography were TERRIBLE. I liked the costumes, but it seemed like the main attraction was the topless women - not something I needed to pay 102 euros per person to see. Even a entire bottle of champagne couldn't dull the pain of this horrible tourist trap attraction. I'm glad I went and satisfied my curiosity though.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
The last Sunday in Paris
As I write this from Portland, here's what I want to remember about my last Sunday in Paris.
Nino and I went to the Marché Bastille one last time, mostly so I could take photos. The smell of the roasting chickens, the crowd, and the seasonal fruits and veggies are what I will remember most.
In the afternoon, we visited two more churchs. Tried for a third time to see the Opera Garnier and again the main auditorium was closed.
We had a quiet dinner at the apartment that evening.
After dinner, I decided that I wanted to take a walk by the Seine and see the sunset. Nino chose not to come because he just wanted to stay in for the evening.
I left about 8:45pm and made it to the Seine as right as the sun was setting over the river. Once I started walking, I couldn't stop. I walked along the river to Notre Dame Cathedral and then kept going all the way until I reached the Eiffel Tower. By this time, it was completely dark. Just as I reached the Tower, it lit up in thousands of white flashing lights. The only thing which would have made the evening more perfect was Nino joining me.
I found a Metro station and realized that I had been gone almost two hours. Needless to say, by the time I walked in in about 11pm, Nino was not happy that I had been gone so long. I truly didn't mean to leave him on his own all evening. As Nino said, I get distracted by the pretty flashing lights sometimes.
Nino and I went to the Marché Bastille one last time, mostly so I could take photos. The smell of the roasting chickens, the crowd, and the seasonal fruits and veggies are what I will remember most.
In the afternoon, we visited two more churchs. Tried for a third time to see the Opera Garnier and again the main auditorium was closed.
We had a quiet dinner at the apartment that evening.
After dinner, I decided that I wanted to take a walk by the Seine and see the sunset. Nino chose not to come because he just wanted to stay in for the evening.
I left about 8:45pm and made it to the Seine as right as the sun was setting over the river. Once I started walking, I couldn't stop. I walked along the river to Notre Dame Cathedral and then kept going all the way until I reached the Eiffel Tower. By this time, it was completely dark. Just as I reached the Tower, it lit up in thousands of white flashing lights. The only thing which would have made the evening more perfect was Nino joining me.
I found a Metro station and realized that I had been gone almost two hours. Needless to say, by the time I walked in in about 11pm, Nino was not happy that I had been gone so long. I truly didn't mean to leave him on his own all evening. As Nino said, I get distracted by the pretty flashing lights sometimes.
Saturday, April 25, 2009
My last Saturday in Paris
Nino and I slept late this morning. We didn't get up until 10:30am or so.
We stopped by a small café for a quick cup of coffee and snack before walking to the Marché Aligre. I've wanted to check this market out for awhile and finally went today. It is a daily fruit and veggie market about 3/4 mile from the apartment. It was a nice walk to the market on a cool day. And I loved strolling through the stands looking at produce and listening to the vendors. I didn't need anything though since Nino bought so much at the Marché Bastille on Thursday. I dragged Nino to Planet Sushi for lunch on the way back to the apartment.
I walked through the art market held every Saturday at the Bastille and Nino headed back to the apartment. I tried to go to the Opera Garnier again today and again the auditorium was closed for rehearsal. Supposedly, it's open tomorrow. We'll see.
Instead, I took the metro to the Musée Maillol, a museum containing the art and collection of Aristide Maillol. I only vaguely knew he was a sculptor during Rodin's time. I enjoyed the sculptures and paintings by him as well as by French painter, Seraphine. I still prefer Rodin, but looking at sculptures is a great way to spend any afternoon.
I came home to the apartment for a long nap and a hot shower before dinner this evening.
This evening, Nino and I dined at what has become my favorite restaurant in Paris, La Cigale Recamier. La Cigale Recamier is known for their excellent soufflés. The guide book I have recommended ordering three soufflés: appetizer, dinner, and dessert. And they were UNBELIEVABLE.
Nino and I both started with the small Basque soufflés, flavored with red pepper, thinly sliced ham, and cheese. For dinner, Nino opted for the nightly special: an asparagus soufflé. I took the server's recommendation and ordered the Henri IV soufflé, a mixture of cheese, spices, and chicken. If I've tasted something else better in Paris, I really can't remember what it was. I don't think there is anything more French than a great soufflé.
Dessert is where I made my only error of the evening. I ordered the chocolate mint soufflé which turned out to be a very mint soufflé with only a little bit of chocolate. It was good, but not nearly as divine as Nino's caramel soufflé. The caramel soufflé had been described by my book as the best soufflé on the menu. Nino couldn't finish, so I helped him out and finished his instead of mine.
I ordered and conversed entirely in French with the server and staff. The waiter complimented me on my French, which makes me very proud. When the waiter left, Nino rolled his eyes and asked me what in the world I am going to do back in Portland when people don't feel the need to boost my ego every day by complimenting by language skills. What indeed?
I wanted to walk home through St. Germain des Pres, but I lost Rock Paper Scissors to Nino and had to take the Metro back to the apartment instead. I used the time to finally catch up on my blog, although I had to share the tiny couch with Nino while doing it. :)
We stopped by a small café for a quick cup of coffee and snack before walking to the Marché Aligre. I've wanted to check this market out for awhile and finally went today. It is a daily fruit and veggie market about 3/4 mile from the apartment. It was a nice walk to the market on a cool day. And I loved strolling through the stands looking at produce and listening to the vendors. I didn't need anything though since Nino bought so much at the Marché Bastille on Thursday. I dragged Nino to Planet Sushi for lunch on the way back to the apartment.
I walked through the art market held every Saturday at the Bastille and Nino headed back to the apartment. I tried to go to the Opera Garnier again today and again the auditorium was closed for rehearsal. Supposedly, it's open tomorrow. We'll see.
Instead, I took the metro to the Musée Maillol, a museum containing the art and collection of Aristide Maillol. I only vaguely knew he was a sculptor during Rodin's time. I enjoyed the sculptures and paintings by him as well as by French painter, Seraphine. I still prefer Rodin, but looking at sculptures is a great way to spend any afternoon.
I came home to the apartment for a long nap and a hot shower before dinner this evening.
This evening, Nino and I dined at what has become my favorite restaurant in Paris, La Cigale Recamier. La Cigale Recamier is known for their excellent soufflés. The guide book I have recommended ordering three soufflés: appetizer, dinner, and dessert. And they were UNBELIEVABLE.
Nino and I both started with the small Basque soufflés, flavored with red pepper, thinly sliced ham, and cheese. For dinner, Nino opted for the nightly special: an asparagus soufflé. I took the server's recommendation and ordered the Henri IV soufflé, a mixture of cheese, spices, and chicken. If I've tasted something else better in Paris, I really can't remember what it was. I don't think there is anything more French than a great soufflé.
Dessert is where I made my only error of the evening. I ordered the chocolate mint soufflé which turned out to be a very mint soufflé with only a little bit of chocolate. It was good, but not nearly as divine as Nino's caramel soufflé. The caramel soufflé had been described by my book as the best soufflé on the menu. Nino couldn't finish, so I helped him out and finished his instead of mine.
I ordered and conversed entirely in French with the server and staff. The waiter complimented me on my French, which makes me very proud. When the waiter left, Nino rolled his eyes and asked me what in the world I am going to do back in Portland when people don't feel the need to boost my ego every day by complimenting by language skills. What indeed?
I wanted to walk home through St. Germain des Pres, but I lost Rock Paper Scissors to Nino and had to take the Metro back to the apartment instead. I used the time to finally catch up on my blog, although I had to share the tiny couch with Nino while doing it. :)
Chartres: Not Just Another Church
I did whine and complain just a little when Nino decided he wanted to go out to see the Notre Dame Cathedral at Chartres. I was unconvinced that this one was going to be different until he told me that this is a UNESCO World Heritage site. I was still skeptical though that it was going to be worth the 27 Euros per person in train tickets and the 90 minute Metro/train trip, but I chose to humor him and go anyway.
Chartres turned out to be not just another church. To begin with, it's massive and in excellent condition for an 800 year old building. This is the fifth church that has stood on this site. The stain glass windows and stone work were artful and awe-inspiring. I could feel the history in the floors and walls, lit by flickering candlelight. I lit a candle and sat in the pews before the pearwood, carved statue of the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus. It was well worth both the time and money to visit.
After the church, Nino went hog wild in old town buying regional liquors, chocolates, cheese, and other gourmet goodies. I had fun watching him have fun and translating as we went. I have gotten much more comfortable with speaking to people now - whether or not I understand everything they say and they understand everything I say.
We took the train and Metro back to the apartment in the evening. Nino cooked pasta (which he bought himself from the Marché Bastille) and cut up the artisanal cheese. I drank too much red wine. :)
Chartres turned out to be not just another church. To begin with, it's massive and in excellent condition for an 800 year old building. This is the fifth church that has stood on this site. The stain glass windows and stone work were artful and awe-inspiring. I could feel the history in the floors and walls, lit by flickering candlelight. I lit a candle and sat in the pews before the pearwood, carved statue of the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus. It was well worth both the time and money to visit.
After the church, Nino went hog wild in old town buying regional liquors, chocolates, cheese, and other gourmet goodies. I had fun watching him have fun and translating as we went. I have gotten much more comfortable with speaking to people now - whether or not I understand everything they say and they understand everything I say.
We took the train and Metro back to the apartment in the evening. Nino cooked pasta (which he bought himself from the Marché Bastille) and cut up the artisanal cheese. I drank too much red wine. :)
Slowly winding down
Thursday morning was my last French class here in Paris. I was extremely sad when the class ended. I can't believe how fast the time has gone. Jean Charles was in a mood on Thursday. The Estonian student, Madli, showed up late to class and he ended up putting her on the spot and asking her to compare Estonia with France and about 5 other countries. (Today's grammar lesson was about comparisons.) In a mood or not, I will really miss Jean Charles.
After class, Nino and I headed to the Montmartre area. Tired of churches, I decided to take the lead on this afternoon. I promised Aunt Tracy that I would go to Montmartre and think of her (which I did). We visited the Musée Montmartre which was supposed to have memorabilia and history about the Montmartre area. Instead, the had an exhibit on French actor Jean Marais. And, unfortunately, Montmartre is as touristy as ever. It did remind me of Gene Kelly's character in an American in Paris though. I made Nino walk through the artist's stalls and look out on the view over the city. He was anxious to get back to a church we saw back near the Metro station. We did stop in to Our Lady of Clignancourt before getting on the Metro and heading back to the apartment.
On Thursday evening, Nino and I went took a dinner cruise on the Bateau Mouche. We got dressed up and took the Metro to the Alma-Marceau station. We had an amazing evening cruising along the river, seeing the city lit up, and listening to the live pianist and singer. Admittedly, the food could have been better. But since I had about half a bottle of champagne it was fine with me. Towards the end of the cruise, we went to the top of the boat so we could see the Eiffel Tower as we cruised by a second time.
We also watched an older couple celebrating either a birthday or anniversary get up and dance as the violinist played just for them during dessert. I got tears in my ears watching them.
We couldn't have had a better evening. Except for the time when Nino decided to make a face when I took a picture of us; it was the best photo of the night of me and it's pretty much unusable because of his funny face. He did make it up to me by buying an expensive cruise photo (also a phenomenal pic of the two of us) to remember the awesome evening.
After class, Nino and I headed to the Montmartre area. Tired of churches, I decided to take the lead on this afternoon. I promised Aunt Tracy that I would go to Montmartre and think of her (which I did). We visited the Musée Montmartre which was supposed to have memorabilia and history about the Montmartre area. Instead, the had an exhibit on French actor Jean Marais. And, unfortunately, Montmartre is as touristy as ever. It did remind me of Gene Kelly's character in an American in Paris though. I made Nino walk through the artist's stalls and look out on the view over the city. He was anxious to get back to a church we saw back near the Metro station. We did stop in to Our Lady of Clignancourt before getting on the Metro and heading back to the apartment.
On Thursday evening, Nino and I went took a dinner cruise on the Bateau Mouche. We got dressed up and took the Metro to the Alma-Marceau station. We had an amazing evening cruising along the river, seeing the city lit up, and listening to the live pianist and singer. Admittedly, the food could have been better. But since I had about half a bottle of champagne it was fine with me. Towards the end of the cruise, we went to the top of the boat so we could see the Eiffel Tower as we cruised by a second time.
We also watched an older couple celebrating either a birthday or anniversary get up and dance as the violinist played just for them during dessert. I got tears in my ears watching them.
We couldn't have had a better evening. Except for the time when Nino decided to make a face when I took a picture of us; it was the best photo of the night of me and it's pretty much unusable because of his funny face. He did make it up to me by buying an expensive cruise photo (also a phenomenal pic of the two of us) to remember the awesome evening.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Dinner at Chez Janou
Nino and I had an excellent dinner at Chez Janou this evening. The restaurant came highly recommended by two couples who have exquisite culinary taste, so we figured we were in for a treat.
The small, popular restaurant is tucked on a sidestreet, Rue de Tournelles, in the Marais area where we live. Even at 7:45pm when we arrived, the place was packed. I was surprised that they fit us in without a reservation. They sat us down at a table not far from the kitchen and next to another American couple. The other couple is from Virginia and relocated here for the next three years with their boys, ages 7 and 14.
Nino had an amazing house salad with tender greens, melon, mozzarella, and smoked ham to start. I ordered the baked mussels provençal. Then for dinner, I opted for the baked duck and pasta. Nino chose the steak and potatoes special. Dessert was probably the best. The house special is chocolate mousse. On the recommendation of the couple next to us, only one of us chose the mousse. One of the servers brought out a massive bowl of fresh made chocolate mousse and then scooped the rich dessert into my bowl. I could have asked for as many scoops as I wanted; some people actually do. The dark chocolate goodness was out of this world and so rich that I probably left at least 1/2 of what they gave me on the plate. Nino opted for the lighter vanilla crème brulée. It was good, but not as memorable as the chocolate mousse.
We enjoyed chatting with the other couple. I can't help but ending this post on something she said. "When you go back to the United States, be prepared that most of the food is going to taste like plastic." At least then maybe I won't feel like eating for awhile. :) Although my clothes fit fine, I am starting to feel a little heavy with all the rich food here.
The small, popular restaurant is tucked on a sidestreet, Rue de Tournelles, in the Marais area where we live. Even at 7:45pm when we arrived, the place was packed. I was surprised that they fit us in without a reservation. They sat us down at a table not far from the kitchen and next to another American couple. The other couple is from Virginia and relocated here for the next three years with their boys, ages 7 and 14.
Nino had an amazing house salad with tender greens, melon, mozzarella, and smoked ham to start. I ordered the baked mussels provençal. Then for dinner, I opted for the baked duck and pasta. Nino chose the steak and potatoes special. Dessert was probably the best. The house special is chocolate mousse. On the recommendation of the couple next to us, only one of us chose the mousse. One of the servers brought out a massive bowl of fresh made chocolate mousse and then scooped the rich dessert into my bowl. I could have asked for as many scoops as I wanted; some people actually do. The dark chocolate goodness was out of this world and so rich that I probably left at least 1/2 of what they gave me on the plate. Nino opted for the lighter vanilla crème brulée. It was good, but not as memorable as the chocolate mousse.
We enjoyed chatting with the other couple. I can't help but ending this post on something she said. "When you go back to the United States, be prepared that most of the food is going to taste like plastic." At least then maybe I won't feel like eating for awhile. :) Although my clothes fit fine, I am starting to feel a little heavy with all the rich food here.
The joy of reconnecting
Nino and I seem to be past the initial bumps of readjusting and now I'm enjoying reconnecting with him.
We took the Metro to the St. Michel neighborhood on the Left Bank today. Nino chose a lovely sidewalk cafe for lunch. We talked, ate, joked, and held hands. After lunch, we headed towards the Cluny Museum housing art from the Middle Ages. We, of course, had to stop at two churches on the way. I didn't mind so much today though.
The museum itself housed an interesting collection of relics and tapestries including one very famous one entitled, The Princess and the Unicorn. After the museum, we stopped for ice cream in the Latin Quarter and walked back to the apartment.
We split up when we got near the apartment so I could buy some red roses and Nino could head back for a nap. He still hasn't fully adjusted to the time difference or the richness of the food.
We took the Metro to the St. Michel neighborhood on the Left Bank today. Nino chose a lovely sidewalk cafe for lunch. We talked, ate, joked, and held hands. After lunch, we headed towards the Cluny Museum housing art from the Middle Ages. We, of course, had to stop at two churches on the way. I didn't mind so much today though.
The museum itself housed an interesting collection of relics and tapestries including one very famous one entitled, The Princess and the Unicorn. After the museum, we stopped for ice cream in the Latin Quarter and walked back to the apartment.
We split up when we got near the apartment so I could buy some red roses and Nino could head back for a nap. He still hasn't fully adjusted to the time difference or the richness of the food.
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