I went and saw Slumdog Millionaire this evening. I wrongly assumed it would be in English with French subtitles. The nice young woman selling the tickets politely asked if I understood French. I said I did and decided to stick around and see how much I could understand. I figured I could leave if it was over my head. Better to try and fail, than not try at all.
This was a great movie to choose because I already knew the basic plot and so much of it is images and facial expressions. The only words that were really important were the questions, all written on the screen in English. I understood a lot of the dialogue and stuck around for the whole film.
I wasn't expecting the violence, but it fit despite utterly shocking me. I cried at the end when he got the girl. Sad, but beautiful. Can totally understand why it won the Oscar.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Friday, April 3, 2009
The Utterly Amazing Versailles
I took the train from Gare Austerlitz in Paris out to the the town of Versailles today.
I thought it was going to be sunny, so I left my jacket at home. When I got off the train, I discovered soupy, foggy, cool Portland weather. My mock turtleneck and skirt weren't going to keep me warm in this. At first I tried to brave it out as I walked toward the market. Then, I spotted a French ready to wear discount clothing store. Why not see if they had something to keep me from freezing? Usually, I have little to no luck finding clothes in Europe. I was hoping for a miracle. And that's exactly what I found: an adorable short red cotton coat that went with my outfit, was a great price at 27 Euros, and FIT me. Eureka!!!
Next stop: Versailles's open air market. This is what heaven must look like (or at least my version). Fresh fruits, vegetables, cheese, meats, seafood, artisan chocolates and culinary creations from one end of the large square to the other. Vendors playfully yelling to one another, locals out shopping for dinner, and just a couple of tourists like me to round out the small crowd. I saw more interesting and mouth watering treats than I could possibly take in. This market was even better than the Marché Bastille and this one is almost never on the tourist's beaten path. My favorite stand was run by two French girls in their mid 20s. The very pleasant ladies were selling loose teas, pepper, salt, and spices. They must have had 20 types of tea, over 50 kinds of salt and pepper, and about 30 loose spices. I briefly considered abandoning Portland and moving to an apartment right above the market just so I could shop here 3 times per week.
I stopped for lunch at a brasserie on the opposite side of the market, tucked off the main street. After investigating several bistros, I chose Au Petit Marquis. It looked unassuming and quiet on the outside. (Once again, they had a good specials chalkboard.) On the inside, I discovered a warm bustling bistro full of Parisians. There were almost no tables available; I was seated in the very back of the long restaurant at a small table for two. The staff and the people around me couldn't have been more polite. I ate a three vegetable paté with baguette, sautéed fruits of the sea with a saffron cream sauce for the main course, a lemon tart, and an espresso.
After lunch, I finally headed to the Versailles Palace. Pictures and words don't do the place justice. It's massive and opulent. The gardens and water features stretch for miles. I feel like I never need to see another castle. There can't possibly be one better than this one anywhere. I greatly enjoyed visiting the special exhibit on the jewelry and couture of Europe's royalty (minus Great Britain). I particularly appreciated the 250 year old wedding dress worn by a Swedish queen. What a life. At the end of the visit, I was definitely craving a more modern environment (like the Palais de Tokyo) minus the tapestries, heavy velvet drapes, and covering on every single wall and floor in the palace.
I wanted another coffee before I headed back to Paris. As I made my way up the street towards the train station, I spotted what looked like a cute café serving espresso and treats. I was horrified to realize that it was actually a McDonalds. This was one of their new McCafes intended to resemble a traditional French cafe. I just couldn't do it. So, I stopped in to the Starbucks next door instead. I overpaid for a tall latte; sadly it tasted EXACTLY like the one I get back home. So much for individuality.
Hopped the train back and listened to three NYU college students plan their futures. I remember when I thought I had it all figured out too. Amazing that one can be so sure of everything at 20.
Got my daily small baguette and crashed at my apartment. Finished off the sheep's milk fromage, cut up a big bowl of strawberries, and sliced the baguette. Oh... and another apple tarte. :)
I am getting a bit lonely without Nino and the beagles. It's been a long time since I've been on my own this long. I'm grateful that I can see and hear all of them on Skype each night.
I thought it was going to be sunny, so I left my jacket at home. When I got off the train, I discovered soupy, foggy, cool Portland weather. My mock turtleneck and skirt weren't going to keep me warm in this. At first I tried to brave it out as I walked toward the market. Then, I spotted a French ready to wear discount clothing store. Why not see if they had something to keep me from freezing? Usually, I have little to no luck finding clothes in Europe. I was hoping for a miracle. And that's exactly what I found: an adorable short red cotton coat that went with my outfit, was a great price at 27 Euros, and FIT me. Eureka!!!
Next stop: Versailles's open air market. This is what heaven must look like (or at least my version). Fresh fruits, vegetables, cheese, meats, seafood, artisan chocolates and culinary creations from one end of the large square to the other. Vendors playfully yelling to one another, locals out shopping for dinner, and just a couple of tourists like me to round out the small crowd. I saw more interesting and mouth watering treats than I could possibly take in. This market was even better than the Marché Bastille and this one is almost never on the tourist's beaten path. My favorite stand was run by two French girls in their mid 20s. The very pleasant ladies were selling loose teas, pepper, salt, and spices. They must have had 20 types of tea, over 50 kinds of salt and pepper, and about 30 loose spices. I briefly considered abandoning Portland and moving to an apartment right above the market just so I could shop here 3 times per week.
I stopped for lunch at a brasserie on the opposite side of the market, tucked off the main street. After investigating several bistros, I chose Au Petit Marquis. It looked unassuming and quiet on the outside. (Once again, they had a good specials chalkboard.) On the inside, I discovered a warm bustling bistro full of Parisians. There were almost no tables available; I was seated in the very back of the long restaurant at a small table for two. The staff and the people around me couldn't have been more polite. I ate a three vegetable paté with baguette, sautéed fruits of the sea with a saffron cream sauce for the main course, a lemon tart, and an espresso.
After lunch, I finally headed to the Versailles Palace. Pictures and words don't do the place justice. It's massive and opulent. The gardens and water features stretch for miles. I feel like I never need to see another castle. There can't possibly be one better than this one anywhere. I greatly enjoyed visiting the special exhibit on the jewelry and couture of Europe's royalty (minus Great Britain). I particularly appreciated the 250 year old wedding dress worn by a Swedish queen. What a life. At the end of the visit, I was definitely craving a more modern environment (like the Palais de Tokyo) minus the tapestries, heavy velvet drapes, and covering on every single wall and floor in the palace.
I wanted another coffee before I headed back to Paris. As I made my way up the street towards the train station, I spotted what looked like a cute café serving espresso and treats. I was horrified to realize that it was actually a McDonalds. This was one of their new McCafes intended to resemble a traditional French cafe. I just couldn't do it. So, I stopped in to the Starbucks next door instead. I overpaid for a tall latte; sadly it tasted EXACTLY like the one I get back home. So much for individuality.
Hopped the train back and listened to three NYU college students plan their futures. I remember when I thought I had it all figured out too. Amazing that one can be so sure of everything at 20.
Got my daily small baguette and crashed at my apartment. Finished off the sheep's milk fromage, cut up a big bowl of strawberries, and sliced the baguette. Oh... and another apple tarte. :)
I am getting a bit lonely without Nino and the beagles. It's been a long time since I've been on my own this long. I'm grateful that I can see and hear all of them on Skype each night.
Me and my Metro Pass
I bought a monthly Metro pass which enables me to jump on and off the Metro within the heart of Paris as much as I'd like. I feel oddly empowered that I could go anywhere now.
April 2nd Afternoon
Here's a round-up of what I did yesterday afternoon:
I shopped in the Louvre Carousel shops. I ended up here by accident when I popped out of the Metro station to discover that I was in the mall. I was on my way to the Museum of Decorative Arts, near the Louvre.
The Museum of Decorative Arts covers many things including fashion and jewelry. Currently, there is an exhibition on fashion designer Sonia Rykiel. She's been designing ready to wear clothes since the late 1960s. She's still designing today. A sweater emblazoned "Obama" is the final piece in the exhibit. Some Japanese tourists were finishing the exhibit at the same time as me. They excitedly pointed out the sweater to each other and the only word I caught as they snapped photos was Obama. It's nice to be loved again. The jewelry was outstanding and creative. One purse (or very large broach) was a pink sapphire encrusted seashell. It's much prettier than it sounds.
Walked up the Avenue de Opera towards the Opera Garnier. This is the opera house from Phantom of the Opera. I stopped at a sidewalk café for a café creme and an apple tarte with vanilla ice cream. And got hit on again. I'm not sure if it was me or the possibility of a green card since this particular gentleman told me he is learning English so he can get a better job in the United States. Asked for my phone number again after I said I was married.
I thought I was going to see the opera house, but it turns out I really wanted to shop today. I gave up online shopping during Lent, so I've shopped very little over the past month or so. I stopped in at Zara (a popular Spanish clothing chain), Monoprix, and 3 or 4 other ready to wear type clothing shops.
I ended up at Galerie Lafayette who is having a huge spring sale. I bought a blue nylon hobo type purse from La Bagagerie, a popular Paris purse maker. I didn't have the energy to look at all of the costume jewelry, but I tried on some cute Spring clothes upstairs. Always a pleasure to stop in at Lafayette.
Jumped on the Metro and headed home for dinner. Got off at the Bastille stop, bought a small baguette, a brioche with sugar for breakfast, and an apricot tarte. Dinner ended up being the baguette, the amazing and mouthwatering sheep's milk cheese, fresh strawberries, and half of the tarte.
I shopped in the Louvre Carousel shops. I ended up here by accident when I popped out of the Metro station to discover that I was in the mall. I was on my way to the Museum of Decorative Arts, near the Louvre.
The Museum of Decorative Arts covers many things including fashion and jewelry. Currently, there is an exhibition on fashion designer Sonia Rykiel. She's been designing ready to wear clothes since the late 1960s. She's still designing today. A sweater emblazoned "Obama" is the final piece in the exhibit. Some Japanese tourists were finishing the exhibit at the same time as me. They excitedly pointed out the sweater to each other and the only word I caught as they snapped photos was Obama. It's nice to be loved again. The jewelry was outstanding and creative. One purse (or very large broach) was a pink sapphire encrusted seashell. It's much prettier than it sounds.
Walked up the Avenue de Opera towards the Opera Garnier. This is the opera house from Phantom of the Opera. I stopped at a sidewalk café for a café creme and an apple tarte with vanilla ice cream. And got hit on again. I'm not sure if it was me or the possibility of a green card since this particular gentleman told me he is learning English so he can get a better job in the United States. Asked for my phone number again after I said I was married.
I thought I was going to see the opera house, but it turns out I really wanted to shop today. I gave up online shopping during Lent, so I've shopped very little over the past month or so. I stopped in at Zara (a popular Spanish clothing chain), Monoprix, and 3 or 4 other ready to wear type clothing shops.
I ended up at Galerie Lafayette who is having a huge spring sale. I bought a blue nylon hobo type purse from La Bagagerie, a popular Paris purse maker. I didn't have the energy to look at all of the costume jewelry, but I tried on some cute Spring clothes upstairs. Always a pleasure to stop in at Lafayette.
Jumped on the Metro and headed home for dinner. Got off at the Bastille stop, bought a small baguette, a brioche with sugar for breakfast, and an apricot tarte. Dinner ended up being the baguette, the amazing and mouthwatering sheep's milk cheese, fresh strawberries, and half of the tarte.
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Today's trip to the Marché Bastille
Here's what I bought today at the Marché Bastille:
A good looking French man (who sold me the bananas and cauliflower) hit on me and asked for my telephone number. I explained to him (in French) that I was married. He told me that he is free, no wife to tie him down. He was amazed that I made him speak French to me and not English. I'm here aren't I? Why not speak the language?
I've been hit on several times over the last week. Some men (like Mr. Cauliflower) find it attractive that I'm an American in Paris. Others (like one a few days ago) are turned on when they think I'm a French speaking Canadian and distinctly not upon realizing that I am an American. Truthfully, I was grateful that the one a few days ago dislikes Americans. I want nothing to do with men who walk up to me on the street and try to woo me. So. Not. Attractive.
- Strawberries from Spain
- Cauliflower
- A piece of veal
- Fresh sheep's milk cheese (Don't believe you can get this in the U.S.)
- 3 bananas
- 6 more eggs
- 3 yellow plums
- 3 huge carrots
- A falafel sandwich for lunch from a busy Lebanese vendor
A good looking French man (who sold me the bananas and cauliflower) hit on me and asked for my telephone number. I explained to him (in French) that I was married. He told me that he is free, no wife to tie him down. He was amazed that I made him speak French to me and not English. I'm here aren't I? Why not speak the language?
I've been hit on several times over the last week. Some men (like Mr. Cauliflower) find it attractive that I'm an American in Paris. Others (like one a few days ago) are turned on when they think I'm a French speaking Canadian and distinctly not upon realizing that I am an American. Truthfully, I was grateful that the one a few days ago dislikes Americans. I want nothing to do with men who walk up to me on the street and try to woo me. So. Not. Attractive.
Another adventurous class with Jean Charles
After Shawn decided to answer a question he didn't know in English, Jean Charles enacted a new class rule. A 10 Euro fine for every time a student breaks out in English. Sara's three English language outbursts occurred before the new rule. I hope Jean Charles actually collects.
I made friends with Olga today. She's here from Moscow for two years because her husband was transferred to Paris for work. She, her 17 year old daughter, 3 year old son, and husband live near the Seine. Natsuki was back today after being absent on Tuesday. She is hopelessly lost. I try to explain and help her as best I can, but I'm afraid she's in over her head.
The highlight of today's class was Jean Charles on French President Nicholas Sarkozy. Jean Charles despises Sarkozy and claims that the French are the laughing stocks of Europe because of him. It's sad, but I sort of enjoy Jean Charles on a rant. Jean Charles likes Sarkozy's wife, Carla Bruni. Apparently she is beautiful, intelligent, and elegant.
I made friends with Olga today. She's here from Moscow for two years because her husband was transferred to Paris for work. She, her 17 year old daughter, 3 year old son, and husband live near the Seine. Natsuki was back today after being absent on Tuesday. She is hopelessly lost. I try to explain and help her as best I can, but I'm afraid she's in over her head.
The highlight of today's class was Jean Charles on French President Nicholas Sarkozy. Jean Charles despises Sarkozy and claims that the French are the laughing stocks of Europe because of him. It's sad, but I sort of enjoy Jean Charles on a rant. Jean Charles likes Sarkozy's wife, Carla Bruni. Apparently she is beautiful, intelligent, and elegant.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
An average day
I spent the morning working from my petite apartment, listening to music and watching the British commentators discuss the G20 summit.
About 1pm, I headed to the Musée D'Orsay. It's probably my favorite Parisian museum since it primarily includes 19th and early 20th century art. I decided to grab lunch in the cafeteria and was sorely disappointed by the selection. I've eaten here several times over the years and always remember it as a treat. Either the quality has declined or my taste has improved. Not sure which.
I love walking through the galleries. I stopped frequently to listen to guides in both French and English discuss the paintings. Things in Paris are becoming more crowded, particularly with school groups, since we're getting closer to Easter. Many groups were in the museum today.
M absolute favorite painting is Alexandre Cabanel's Birth of Venus. I sat for awhile in the gallery where this masterpiece hangs, just staring. I may go back to see it.
Since I was starving, I tried my luck once again and ventured into the more upscale Musée D'Orsay café for a café creme and a small pastry. Good fortune struck. Both the coffee and cheesecake were great.
Headed out of the museum, only to be nearly accosted by a gypsy woman running a scam. I deftly avoided her and moved on. I despise the criminals who prey on tourists. I am on guard constantly around the museums precisely because of people like this. Unless I have a destination in mind, I avoid the tourist sections of town. In otherwise, no Eiffel Tower visit on this trip.
I crossed the Seine and walked to the Tuileries Garden, outside the Louvre. The chairs around the ponds were mostly occupied. I found a chair and wrote a few postcards in the waning afternoon sun. The Louvre is open until 8pm tonight, so I headed there next. I've been to the Louvre before so I didn't plan to stop there on this trip. But, there's a temporary exhibit on Egyptian art right now that I wanted to check out. Unfortunately, my museum pass wasn't good for the exhibit; they wanted another 11 euros to enter (equivalent $14). I didn't want to see the exhibit that much.
Found the secret entrance/exit out of the Louvre, jumped on the Metro, and headed home. I unconsciously breathed a sigh of relief upon reaching the Marais and the Village of Saint Paul. I picked up a small baguette for dinner and walked the rest of the way to the apartment.
Without Nino here to prod me, I stay in at night. I heated up my leftover gnochhi, sautéed eggplant, and aged manchego. Cut a little more manchego from my wedge, poured some olive oil, and sliced up the baguette. I finished dinner with my slice of tarte normande from last night since I fell asleep long before I was hungry for it. (It had cranberries in it, btw).
Right now, I'm talking to Nino and the beagles via Skype. Then, I plan to watch a French movie, Priceless, with Audrey Tautou before hitting the sack and starting all over again on another adventure with Jean Charles.
About 1pm, I headed to the Musée D'Orsay. It's probably my favorite Parisian museum since it primarily includes 19th and early 20th century art. I decided to grab lunch in the cafeteria and was sorely disappointed by the selection. I've eaten here several times over the years and always remember it as a treat. Either the quality has declined or my taste has improved. Not sure which.
I love walking through the galleries. I stopped frequently to listen to guides in both French and English discuss the paintings. Things in Paris are becoming more crowded, particularly with school groups, since we're getting closer to Easter. Many groups were in the museum today.
M absolute favorite painting is Alexandre Cabanel's Birth of Venus. I sat for awhile in the gallery where this masterpiece hangs, just staring. I may go back to see it.
Since I was starving, I tried my luck once again and ventured into the more upscale Musée D'Orsay café for a café creme and a small pastry. Good fortune struck. Both the coffee and cheesecake were great.
Headed out of the museum, only to be nearly accosted by a gypsy woman running a scam. I deftly avoided her and moved on. I despise the criminals who prey on tourists. I am on guard constantly around the museums precisely because of people like this. Unless I have a destination in mind, I avoid the tourist sections of town. In otherwise, no Eiffel Tower visit on this trip.
I crossed the Seine and walked to the Tuileries Garden, outside the Louvre. The chairs around the ponds were mostly occupied. I found a chair and wrote a few postcards in the waning afternoon sun. The Louvre is open until 8pm tonight, so I headed there next. I've been to the Louvre before so I didn't plan to stop there on this trip. But, there's a temporary exhibit on Egyptian art right now that I wanted to check out. Unfortunately, my museum pass wasn't good for the exhibit; they wanted another 11 euros to enter (equivalent $14). I didn't want to see the exhibit that much.
Found the secret entrance/exit out of the Louvre, jumped on the Metro, and headed home. I unconsciously breathed a sigh of relief upon reaching the Marais and the Village of Saint Paul. I picked up a small baguette for dinner and walked the rest of the way to the apartment.
Without Nino here to prod me, I stay in at night. I heated up my leftover gnochhi, sautéed eggplant, and aged manchego. Cut a little more manchego from my wedge, poured some olive oil, and sliced up the baguette. I finished dinner with my slice of tarte normande from last night since I fell asleep long before I was hungry for it. (It had cranberries in it, btw).
Right now, I'm talking to Nino and the beagles via Skype. Then, I plan to watch a French movie, Priceless, with Audrey Tautou before hitting the sack and starting all over again on another adventure with Jean Charles.
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